Julie Roberts author, sew with me, regency gown

Sew with me

by Julie Roberts

Sewing a Regency Gown

I decided to make a Regency gown for my first published book launch party. I ordered the pattern from America and I found the material, cotton, cord, eyelets and tape in my local fabric shop. All set to go… I thought I had allowed myself plenty of time to complete this project – ha, ha, I had forgotten the saying ‘double or treble the time you think!’ – but I never miss a deadline. Sewing with the midnight candle did achieve my being dressed as a Regency lady on party night.

First I read the pattern instructions.

Oh dear. My material has a 30cm pattern match.

A bit of head scratching – the skirt panel patterns need careful placing on the material to line up with the bodice. Tip number one. Consider this when buying the material.

Great, it all went to plan. Good thinking that I bought an extra meter.

My completed creation is a fully lined gown. The bodice has an additional layer of light weight interfacing between gown and lining

All set to begin. Don't be frightened, take the plunge. Celebrate with a bar of chocolate
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Tools for cutting out, especially lots of weights
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Marking machine stitching lines, leave long tails of cotton, these will be halved when removing paper pattern and cut
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Separating cut out sections and cutting long cotton tags
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Marking every dart, seam line is essential. Perfect matching up will only be achieved this way. Chalk marking may fade when handled. Seam allowances must be accurate
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Back bodice has two parts. Clip into the seam allowance on curve, but do not go beyond the stitching line
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Completed back section. Clipping has eased into a smooth line
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The paper tags are to make sure the correct side of the material is used. This material was very hard to determine
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Attaching back bodice to front bodice. Lots of tacking
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Lining is sewn the same as the gown
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Front bodice of three layers – gown material, interfacing and lining. Lots and lots of tacking
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Front bodice to back. Just lots and lots of tacking is essential to achieve a smooth finished, low cut Regency gown
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The sleeves – a seamstresses nightmare. This gown has a tuck on the top to help ease in the curve. But it still may need a few clippings to ease into the bodice
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Tuck to ease the sleeve – this is showing the lining
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Completed sleeves – give yourself a pat on the back and enjoy a glass of wine
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Sewing sleeves into a bodice needs patience and time. But it will go in. Celebrate with a cup of tea
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The skirt is tricky. I say this because long seams need to end up matched. A tip, tack with small tacking stitches. An old carpenter told me: measure your wood twice, cut once. Same applies to dress making
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The front and back bodice is sewn to the skirt. The skirt lining is only sewn to the bodice This task is not complicated, just take the time to get the seam straight. You can see now the importance of matching the material pattern. I sewed ribbon over the seam to match the sleeve band
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The gown hem. As tricky as sewing in the sleeves, yet so important if you want a professional finish. Machine stitching is a no-no. Hand sew ribbon over the raw edge making the hem flat and smooth. Likewise the loose underskirt hem.
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My lovely shoes I found to colour match my gown. Should be dancing pumps, I'm still looking for these
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Success. A gown that will make you the belle of the ball at a summer evenings gala, a Valentine beauty for that special person in your life. End the year celebrating the festive Christmas and New Year dancing in a Regency gown. My tip for a fun evening. Start a sewing circle with your friends. Share a bottle of wine, and make a simple dress – then a Regency gown..
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Sew with me

All set to begin. Don't be frightened, take the plunge. Celebrate with a bar of chocolate

Tools for cutting out, especially lots of weights

Marking machine stitching lines, leave long tails of cotton, these will be halved when removing paper pattern and cut

Separating cut out sections and cutting long cotton tags

Marking every dart, seam line is essential. Perfect matching up will only be achieved this way. Chalk marking may fade when handled. Seam allowances must be accurate

Back bodice has two parts. Clip into the seam allowance on curve, but do not go beyond the stitching line

Completed back section. Clipping has eased into a smooth line

The paper tags are to make sure the correct side of the material is used. This material was very hard to determine

Attaching back bodice to front bodice. Lots of tacking

Lining is sewn the same as the gown

Front bodice of three layers – gown material, interfacing and lining. Lots and lots of tacking

Front bodice to back. Just lots and lots of tacking is essential to achieve a smooth finished, low cut Regency gown

The sleeves – a seamstresses nightmare. This gown has a tuck on the top to help ease in the curve. But it still may need a few clippings to ease into the bodice

Tuck to ease the sleeve – this is showing the lining

Completed sleeves – give yourself a pat on the back and enjoy a glass of wine

Sewing sleeves into a bodice needs patience and time. But it will go in. Celebrate with a cup of tea

The skirt is tricky. I say this because long seams need to end up matched. A tip, tack with small tacking stitches. An old carpenter told me: measure your wood twice, cut once. Same applies to dress making

The front and back bodice is sewn to the skirt. The skirt lining is only sewn to the bodice This task is not complicated, just take the time to get the seam straight. You can see now the importance of matching the material pattern. I sewed ribbon over the seam to match the sleeve band

The gown hem. As tricky as sewing in the sleeves, yet so important if you want a professional finish. Machine stitching is a no-no. Hand sew ribbon over the raw edge making the hem flat and smooth. Likewise the loose underskirt hem.

My lovely shoes I found to colour match my gown. Should be dancing pumps, I'm still looking for these